Gorkha is a town located midway between Kathmandu and Pokhara. It is the home of the unifier of Nepal, King Prithvi Narayan Shah. A 20-odd kilometer road from Khaireni on the Prithvi Highway makes Gorkha only a half-day ride from Pokhara or Kathmandu. Curiously unvisited, efforts are on the way to put the cradle of modern Nepal on the tourist map.
Prithvi Narayan's Palace still stands above the ridge a steep 20-minute climb from the bazaar. This architectural tour-de-force is surrounded on all sides by views of Manaslu, Baudha, and Himalchuli. On Saturdays, Nepali families come to worship at the nearby shrine, bringing a chicken or goat for sacrifice.
History Even though Gorkha was the base from which Prithvi Narayan Shah conducted his extraordinary campaigns, it was really a petty hill-state that enjoyed only a flash of glory in Nepal's history. According to historians, Prithvi Narayan's ancestors came to Gorkha in the mid-16th century, fleeing Muslim invaders in their original home in Rajasthan. His father launched an unsuccessful raid on Kathmandu Valley. It is hard to believe that this modest village supported such an active army for almost three decades – only to be supplanted as capital by Kathmandu.
Attractions The imposing and impressive Tallo Durbar or lower palace served as the administrative headquarters but is being turned into a museum of Gorkha history. The upper Durbar, 300 meters higher up, housed the king and his court. Prithvi Narayan was born here and upstairs in the east wing you can find his throne and a flame that has remained lit ever since he unified Nepal. The fortress remains a religious place, with the revered Kalika Mandir inside, closed to all but priests and the King. Sacrifices are offered on the alcove in front of the entrance, a site of processions and plenty of bloodletting during the Chaitra Dasain Festival in late March. Nearby is the holy Cave of Gorakhnath, a protector deity of the Shah Kings. In the bazaar the old brick building with government offices has some noteworthy woodcarving. |