  | |
Annapurna (left) and Machapuchare (right)
  The valley town of Pokhara is located some 125 miles west of Kathmandu. It is the hub for treks to the central mountains and proximate to several popular hiking routes. There are frequent day and night bus services from Kathmandu. When the road has not been knocked around too much by rains, it is about a six hour ride to Kathmandu, with a daal-bhaat stop for lunch at Mugling. It is a bumpy but interesting ride, passing river gorges, picturesque villages, and pretty terraced fields. You may consider flying one way and bussing it the other, or vice-versa. Pokhara and its valley is the largest in Nepal, but its handicap has always been the shortage of water for irrigation. At an elevation of close to 3,000 feet above sea level, it lies lower than Kathmandu, but the central Himalayas are as close as 20 miles north, which accounts for the close-up views. Clouds dumping their rain as they crash into these peaks give Pokhara an astounding annual rainfall of over 150 inches – so be prepared. History Pokhara has grown by leaps and bounds. The first vehicle arrived on a plane in 1958, and the road to Kathmandu didn't open until the early 1970's. People moving down to Pokhara from the hills have more than tripled its population in the past 25 years. Attractions Pokhara is a popular destination mostly because of its rich natural beauty. It is home to several lakes and mountains, but also offers the customary Nepalese temples, ethnic communities, and bazaar shopping. Phewa Lake Tourists are drawn to the Pokhara district of Baidam, the lakeside area of Phewa Lake. Each year, the line of hotels, restaurants, bookshops, bakeries, clothing and souvenir stalls and travel agents gets longer. There are numerous decent lodges around the lake. Hotels have also sprung up below the dam at the southern end of the lake. It is easy to rent a boat, with or without a rower, for a leisurely cruise. Large rowing boats or dinghy sailboats can also be rented. And you can enjoy unobstructed views of the as-yet unclimbed and unpermittable — Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) at 23,000 feet and the Annapurna and Manaslu himals. But the best way to explore the lake may be around it on bike. You can rent ordinary push-bikes or mountain bikes on the lakeside strip at rates comparable with those in Kathmandu. There is also a small island on the lake with a Temple of Varahi. Upon arrival, you can look back across at the large compound and villa of the Royal Family. Just a short walk south of Phewa Tal, you’ll also find the waterfall of Patle Chhango, also called Devi's or Devin's Fall. This is where the water from Phewa sinks below a channel - with sound and fury in a monsoon and a mere whimper in spring. The story is that a western woman drowned here once while skinny-dipping, but no one yet knows or can explain why the falls are called Devi, which is the name of a Nepali goddess. Lake Begnas and Lake Rupa About 10 miles east of Pokhara are two other small lakes, Begnas and Rupa, cradled in a ring of hills. Buses run to the lakes from New Road, taking about 45 minutes; alternatively, you could cycle out and get there quickly and more enjoyably. Mountain Treks The sky over Pokhara generally gets cloudy by mid-morning. You should make it a point to be up at dawn for the best views of the mountains. Sarangkot, high up on the ridge north of Phewa Tal, is the most popular destination for a short hike. The mountain reaches 5,220 feet above sea level and takes three hours to climb. At the top, you can find the ruins of the fort of the Kaski kings who fell to the Gorkhalis in 1781. There are also lodges if you want to stay overnight to enjoy the sunset and dawn. Otherwise it is a full day's excursion. Kahun Dada is another mountain, although it is not as high as the Sarangkot, reaching only 5,000 feet above sea level. The mountain takes about three hours to climb. While the Kahun Dada is less spectacular than the Sarangkot, Kahun Dada’s trail is quieter and there is a lookout tower at the top. Bazaar Tourists are also attracted to the town’s main bazaar, located a few miles north of Phewa Lake, past the airstrip and the highway to Kathmandu. You can bargain over the price of the jewels, trinkets, backpacks, blankets, and other goods sold at the bazaar. Temples and Museums You should also visit the Bindyabasini Temple in the northern part of town. It will provide a glimpse of what Pokhara was like before the invasion of the ubiquitous concrete box buildings. A short way’s south of Bindyabasini Temple, you’ll also find the Bhimsen Temple. A little further north of the two temples is a good point from which to view the Seti River's narrow gorge. The British Pension Camp for the Gurkha soldiers is nearby. Here too is a museum on the Annapurna area run by the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP). Still further on is the Tibetan Refugee Camp. Ethnic Villages The Tibetan settlements of Tashi Palkhel and Tashiling, both within easy cycling distance, produce voluminous quantities of carpets for export. Tashi Palkhel, better known as Hyangja, is the larger, with 1,000 residents, its own gompa and school. Tashiling is half the size, just less than 2 miles from the damside, with its own gompa and primary school. Tibetans who have settled here have come a long way in the past two decades. Some have opened souvenir shops near the lakeside, others continue to be mobile and work as peddlers. Cuisine A favorite evening past time in Pokhara is to sample the array of budget-style "international" cuisine, second only to Thamel. New restaurants keep popping up, but there are many tried and tested establishments offering fare that includes steak, rosti, pasta, vegetable concoctions, momo and thukpa, and a long list of different desserts. | |
|
||||||||||
Article Contributors Anonymous user updated 1 year ago Anonymous user updated 1 year ago |
| Some rights reserved ©. The travel guide article on this page is subject to copyright restrictions. |
|
|
 |