On the Temple Steps - Bhaktapur, Nepal
 Bhaktapur is one of the major cities of Nepal, located about 13 miles east of Kathmandu. Compared to Nepal’s capital, Bhaktapur can seem like a quiet and abandoned town. Bhaktapur does not host the kind of crowds witnessed in the larger Kathmandus. It is this quality that has attracted more and more visitors in recent years – those who want to enjoy the signature Nepalis temples, palaces, and squares without the hustle and bustle. Today, as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Bhaktapur is a popular day-trip destination for many travelers visiting Kathmandu and increasingly becoming more than just a side-show but rather the main feature itself – aided of course by the city’s reputation as one of the better preserved medieval cities in the Kathmandu valley.
Culture and Life Bhaktapur is a Newar town and everyone speaks Newari. About two-thirds of the city’s population are farmers who walk each day from densely populated toles to work their fields outside the city. Much of the social activities take place in the public squares of the toles.
History Bhaktapur grew up originally around villages on the main trade route between Tibet and India. It was initially designed in the shape of a conch shell by King Ananda Malla in the 9th century. Because of its position on the caravan route, Bhaktapur became a rich and prosperous town. The wealth allowed the town to build some of the finest temples. It was, in fact, Bhaktapur that first developed the Pagoda style, which spread east from Tibet to China to Japan.
In the 18th century, however, Bhaktapur began to decline simultaneously as Kathmandu ascended in wealth and political power from its status as capital. Because of Kathmandu’s rise, Bhaktapur stagnated and became isolated. Initiatives in business and development were lured by the bright lights of Kathmandu, as were Bhaktapur’s young people. For the last two hundred years or so and even today, the city trails behind Kathmandu in every way – education, health services, and income. And Bhaktapur’s welfare was not improved by the horrendous earthquake of 1934, which destroyed much of the city.
In the 1990s, however, the German-funded Bhaktapur Development Project has helped improve the city’s infrastructure and economy. The developments were implemented while ensuring the full retention of Bhaktapur’s rich physical and cultural character.
Attractions Most of the city’s attractions are found in the Durbar Square, the heart of Bhaktapur. This is a large open area where tourists stroll amidst cows and kite-fliers. The square opens with the Golden Gate (“Sun Dhoka”) entrance, which leads to the main courtyard of the Palace of 55 Windows. The gate was built by King Ranjit Malla and is one of the most beautifully carved gates of its kind in the world. The carvings feature deities and monsters with detailed intricacy. The Sun Dhoka was built in 1753 and has often been compared to the renaissance Florentine Baptistery doors of Ghilberti.
The Palace of 55 Windows is equally stunning and located just next to the Golden Gate. Built in the early 17th century, the palace features a balcony of 55 windows that is a masterpiece of wood carving. It was built in 1697 by King Bupatindra Malla. While it was damaged in the 1934 earthquake, it has since been restored.
Also located next to the Golden Gate is the National Art Gallery, which has a superb collection of paintings and fine statues, all of which are ancient, medieval, and belonging to Hindu and Buddhist schools depicting tantrism of various descriptions and eras.
The Durbar Square also features the stone temple of Batsala Durga. This temple is a great example of Shikhara style architecture and has an 18th century bronze bell on the temple’s terrace known as the “Bell of Barking Dogs”. The bell was used to signal curfew.
Besides the Batsala Durga, at Durbar Square you’ll also find several other temples and structures including among others the Lion Gate, the Statute of King Bhupatindra Malla, the Tajelu Temple, and the famous Nyatapola Temple. This latter temple is a five-story pagoda shrine built in 1702 by King Bhupatindra Malla. It stands on a five-terraced platform and is one of the tallest pagodas in the world.
The “Pottery Square” just southwest of the Taumadhi Tole is also worth a visit. The entire area is often covered with pots drying in the sun. Potters hunker beside huge whirling platforms that spin black clay into vessels of all sizes and shapes. Women sun the pots and dry and winnow grain while their children play.
The Peacock Window at Dattatraya Square is another point of interest. It is the most famous woodcarving of Bhaktapur and an icon of Nepal.
Shopping Bhaktapur is famous for its pottery. Throughout the entire town and especially at pottery square, you’ll find stands, stalls, and shops selling various ceramics. You can also purchase metalwork and jewelry, although Bhaktapur is less known for these two items. |